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Taipei
The capital by neighborhood: where to base, the 7am breakfast run, night markets ranked with opinions, and honest skips.
Destinations
The island, place by place
Depth beats coverage here. Rather than forty thin city pages, each guide below gets published when it is genuinely done: walked, eaten through, and checked against how the place is right now. The notebook entries tell you what is coming and what I already think.
Tainan
The oldest city and the island's kitchen. Beef soup at dawn, temples every third block, and the lanes around Shennong Street at night. The city I most want visitors to take slowly.
From the notebook · full guide in progressKaohsiung
The harbor city that got cool while nobody was looking: Pier-2's art quarter, the Cijin ferry, and covered night markets that out-eat the capital.
From the notebook · full guide in progressTaichung and Sun Moon Lake
Taiwan's easygoing middle: the original bubble tea shop, the opera house, and the lake that empties of tour groups exactly when it gets beautiful.
From the notebook · full guide in progressHualien and the east
The Pacific side, still recovering and regrouping after the 2024 earthquake. I am tracking what has reopened around Taroko before publishing a responsible guide.
From the notebook · full guide in progressKinmen and the outer islands
Old battlefield tunnels, Fujian-style villages, knives forged from artillery shells, and some of the quietest beaches I have found anywhere.
From the notebook · full guide in progressWant the routes instead of the places? Itineraries live here.